Greetings dear One,

We are here. Safe and comfortable. For the first time arriving in India I did not have the opportunity to touch the ground in reverence. We sashayed off the plane directly into the airport, rather than having to climb down the long steps dragging the carry on behind. We were on time, a completely booked and uneventful flight.

The airport was clean, the immigration official civil and efficient, the bathroom spotless, toilet paper provided.

Our gargantuan luggage was not even blinked at and we waltzed through the green channel with nary a hitch. The arrival hall was clear, no chaos, a few taxi drivers calling out their availability and then.....at the end of the hall, our tall beaming Tibetan "son", Tsering Dorje swept us into his arms hugging us, us hugging him, all three of us so unbelievably grateful to be reunited. Despite all challenges, all threats, all fears, we felt that we had walked through the dark night into the softest and sweetest light. He placed Katas around our necks and we strode out the door into the afternoon heat.

There was the usual scramble by the porters outside the door but even they were caught in the magic of our reunion and heeded our "please don't" request. Tsering had brought the Potala Travel car, the seats were covered with rose petals and marigold flowers. He garlanded us and drove the car himself as the driver rode with our big luggage in another taxi to the hotel. He pointed out to us that Delhi had passed a law that forbade the use of diesel fuel. We couldn't believe it. Even the busses and rickshaws did not give off any emissions. The air was so much cleaner it was like another city. The city streets were clean.

None of us had ever been in the Janpath Hotel. When our hotel of choice, The Centre Point had called last month and said that they had decided to renovate, leaving our pre-pilgrims without lodging, our Potala agents scrambled to find accomodations. This time of year is the busiest in Delhi. They settled on the Janpath, because of location and price. The lobby was clean and pleasant, the usual friendly Indian welcome. We sat as Dorje negotiated with reception. As I looked down the far end of the simple room I saw a magnificent statue.....of Tara. Green Tara. Incredible. We placed our Katas around Her and said long and deep prayers of gratitude.

We were given a suite as directors.....three lovely rooms (green carpet) #201. Dorje asked if we could meet the new director of Potala in Delhi and we of course agreed. Tsering Wangmo looks to be my age, her eyes warm and compassionate. She had taken over our account when Thundup, the director last November had been sent to Dharamsala ill. Wangmo's email letters were so warm and comforting. Over the past year, we had so many challenges to meet and her response was always...."Don't worry, all will be all right." We touched foreheads in the traditional Tibetan gesture of equals meeting.

Tsering Lhamo, her assistant, also came to meet us. She is young and beautiful, and modest. We settled a flurry of details, had a cup of tea and then Anahata and I were alone. To eat and sleep, long and deep.

India is full of travelers right now. There is no indication at all that just over the border Pakistan is in chaos. But then, Pakistan is always in chaos. And that border is one of the most patrolled in the world. These two countries have had their own thing going since the formation of Pakistan in 1948. With the current world crisis they have actually communicated more cooperatively than they have in years. Pakistanis have lived and breathed terrorism for decades. In some ways America's vow to root out terrorism is comforting to those who are sick of it, and would do anything to help it end.

So now there is no doubt. The pilgrimage is on.

With infinite gratitude for Tara's protection and guidance we send you much love from India.

Prema and Anahata